[Image: shrubs]
Fall is here and it's time to think about planting trees and shrubs.
Retail garden centers are receiving shipments of plant material for fall planting, and although some people believe spring is the time for planting, research shows November through January are excellent months for adding trees and shrubs to your landscape. Container-grown plants can be planted successfully throughout the year; however, fall is still the preferred time for landscape establishment. Balled and burlapped trees may be planted successfully in the fall as well as in the spring.
Among the reasons fall is the best time to plant, according to research, is the decreased demand for nutrients during this period. Shoot growth also is progressing at a rapidly decreasing rate, and soil temperatures are favorable for root growth.
Planting in the fall allows a tree or shrub to establish a strong root system as compared to planting at other times of the year. Therefore, root growth should be the first priority after planting.
As for pruning at the time of planting, LSU AgCenter horticulturists recommend pruning only broken, diseased or damaged shoots at planting. If top pruning is done at transplanting, root growth is reduced because stored plant food is diverted to the shoot, or to put this another way, pruning stimulates shoot growth.
When excessive shoot growth develops prior to adequate root growth after planting, this sets up a situation in which you develop a plant with a poor root system that cannot support newly developed shoot growth. Therefore, an understanding of what is going on inside a plant helps you to be a successful gardener.
Of all the cultural practices for ornamental plants, the process of planting and follow-up care for several months after planting are most critical. This determines how rapidly the trees and shrubs adapt to their new growing environment.. The process of planting is simple, but this involves more than digging a hole.
The following steps should be used as guidelines for individual planting of trees and shrubs:
– Dig a planting hole two to three times wider than the root ball of the plant.
– Set the plant in the hole no deeper than it was growing in the container or field.
– On balled and burlapped stock, cut and remove any wire or cord from around the upper part of the ball or stem. This prevents root and stem girdling later. Pull the burlap back from the upper third of the root ball to allow new roots to grow freely.
– When planting container plants, loosen the root mass, especially if the root ball is root bound. This process encourages root growth outward into the surrounding soil.
– Backfill with the same soil removed from the hole after breaking apart clods and removing debris. Amending or replacing backfill soil with organic materials (such as peat moss, pine bark and so forth) can create a problem with excessive water accumulation in the planting hole.
– Water while the soil is being placed around the root ball to help eliminate air pockets that could dry out roots.
– Make a saucer around the plant to hold water around the root ball each time the plant is watered. This is especially needed for trees and larger containers or balled and burlapped shrubs. Do not allow this saucer to hold water around the plant on a continuous basis.
– Apply 2-3 inches of mulch to the soil surface extending 2-3 feet beyond the canopy. Mulch materials can include pine straw, pine bark, leaves, compost or cypress shavings.
Follow these suggestions and guidelines and your fall landscape planting will be successful.
For more information, contact Jim Summers, County Agent-LaSalle Parish