News Article for June 1, 2009:
Fresh tomatoes are making their debut. I have eaten a lot of sandwiches, but the only time I really like them, besides when I am really hungry, is when fresh tomatoes are in season. You can not go wrong with a fresh BLT.
Tomatoes can be challenging to grow, particularly when you get a lot of splashing rain from thunderstorms. Last week we talked about early blight and how to control those leaf spots.
This week I have encountered a multitude of other tomato problems.
Bacterial wilt is a devastating disease of tomatoes. This disease will allow you to get your hopes up because the tomato plant grows up several feet tall and sets a lot of tomatoes. The disappointment comes when one day you walk out to find your tomato plant looks as if someone poured scalding hot water over it. It wilts down and does not come back. I have seen the severity range from 10-100%.
There is no cure for bacterial wilt. The bacteria live in the soil and get into and clog up the vascular system of the plant. The bacteria prevent the uptake of water and nutrients until one day the plant succumbs to the lack of water, much like having a heart attack from plaque buildup in the arteries. One day the plant looks great, the next day it is totally wilted.
The real problem is that the bacteria remain active in the soil indefinitely and will be there to reinfect your tomatoes again next year. The bacteria will also infect peppers and eggplants but not as severe as tomatoes. None of your other plants will be affected.
I suggest that you move the tomatoes all the way to the other side of the garden next season if the garden in large enough. If not, you may want to start a new tomato-growing area. I will caution you that you can transport the bacteria to the new area by transferring soil on garden tools such as shovels, hoes and tillers, so be careful. Next year get your tomatoes planted early before it gets too hot and try a different variety that may be more tolerant of the bacteria.
I have seen several cases of spider mites in tomatoes this week also. You need good eyesight to find these guys. They are very small, sucking mites, usually red, that can suck the plant juices and stunt the plants and tomatoes.
The first sign of spider mites is a mottling of the green leaves, usually on top of the plant. If you see a plant lighter green than the others, check the underside of the leaves. After a while the plants show a bronze cast. I usually need magnification to see spider mites, but I also will take a white sheet of paper and thump the leaf hard over the paper. If the little dots on the paper are walking around, you have spider mites. I would use Malathion for control.
Stinkbugs are also starting to show up. There are green ones, brown ones and long-legged ones with leaf-like structures on there legs. They all have piercing mouth parts and suck the tomato. It is their feeding that makes yellow spots or rings on the tomato. Not only is it unattractive, but it does not taste good and leaves a hard, crunchy spot.
My grandfather would say that the only way to kill stinkbugs was between two bricks. He was right, but now you can use Bayer’s Power Force Multi-Insect Killer or Thionex. Sevin will work when they are small, but the ones I have seen are full grown.
Yes, stinkbugs do stink. If you smash them, they will ruin your bricks!
For more information on these or related topics, contact Kenny at 225-686-3020.